Valdani Vicari & Associati - Knowledge Fashion Unit

Knowledge Fashion Unit

Questa bibliografia nasce dal team allargato di professionisti che contribuiscono allo sviluppo della Fashion Unit VVA. Si tratta di persone che trattano il mondo Fashion & Luxury da una prospettiva di business e accademica, ma non solo.

Siamo appassionati del tema, e coltiviamo questo interesse per lavoro e per diletto, attraverso libri, articoli, riviste, blog e siti web.

Da qui una bibliografia estesa, che parte dai grandi classici, presenta testi di storia, sociologia, cultura e management della moda, elenca le riviste scientifiche dedicate alla moda e suggerisce una serie di link tra i nostri preferiti, che spaziano dalla sacralità di Vogue alla prosaicità del gossip.

Un grazie particolare a Diego Rinallo e Stefania Borghini dell’Università Bocconi, preziosi compagni in questa avventura, per la raccolta e la classificazione dei testi e delle riviste.

Buona lettura!

I CLASSICI

Barthes, R., Système de la mode, Seuil, 1967; trad. it.. Sistema della Moda: la moda nei giornali femminili, un’analisi strutturale, Einaudi, 1970.

Barthes, R., Le bleu est à la mode cette année, Editions de l’Institut Français de la Mode, 2001; trad. it., Il senso della moda. Forme e significati dell’abbigliamento, Einaudi, 2006.

Blumer, H., “Fashion: from class differentiation to collective selection”, The Sociological Quarterly.

Bourdieu, P., “Haute couture et haute culture”, in Id., Questions de Sociologie, Paris, Editions de Minuit, 1980.

Bourdieu, P., Delsault, Y. “Le couturier et sa griffe: Contribution à une théorie de la magie”, Actes de la Recherche en Sciences Sociales 1 (gennaio), pp. 7-36.

Flügel, J. C. Psicologia dell’Abbigliamento. Milano, Angeli, 2003 (ed. or. 1930).

Kroeber, A. L. “On the principle of order in civilization as exemplified by changes of fashion”, American Anthropologist 21 (3), pp.235-263.

Lipovetsky, G. L’Impero dell’Effimero. Garzanti, Milano, 1989.

Simmel, G. La Moda. Editori Riuniti, Roma, 1986 (ed. or. 1895).

Veblen, T. La Teoria della Classe Agiata, Einaudi, Torino, 1981 (ed. or. 1899).

Wilson, E. Adorned in Dreams. Tauris, London, 2003 (ed. or. 1985).

TESTI SU STORIA, SOCIOLOGIA, CULTURA E MANAGEMENT DELLA MODA

AA. VV., La Moda Italiana, vol. I, Le origini dell’Alta Moda e la maglieria, a cura di G. Bianchino et al.; vol. II, Dall’antimoda allo stilismo, a cura di G. Butazzi e A. Mottola Molfino, Electa, 1987.

Agins, T. 2000. The End of Fashion. Harper Collins: New York.

Ash, J., Wilson, E. (a cura di), Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader. Pandora Press, London, 1993.

Baldini, C. (a cura di), Sociologia della moda, Armando, 2008.

Barnard, M. Fashion as Communication, London, Routledge, 1996.

Barnes, Ruth and Joanne B. Eicher (1992), Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning in Cultural Contexts, New York and Oxford: Berg.

Belfanti, C.M., Giusberti, F. (a cura di), La Moda, in Storia d’Italia, Annali 19, Torino, Einaudi, 2003.

Bordo, Susan (1999), The Male Body. A New Look at Men in Public and Private. New York: Farrar, Straus & Giroux.

Barnes, R., Eicher, J. B. (a cura di), Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning. Berg, Oxford, 1992.

Bruzzi, S., Gibson, P.C. (a cura di), Fashion Cultures, Theories, Explorations and Analysis. Routledge, London, 2000.

Brydon, A., Niessen, S. Consuming Fashion: Adorning the Transnational Body. Berg, Oxford, 1998.

Calefato, P. 1996. Mass Moda. Costa & Nolan, Genova, 1996.

Carter, M. Fashion Classics, from Carlyle to Barthes. Berg, Oxford, 2003.

Ceriani, Giulia e Grandi, Roberto (a cura di) (4a edizione 2003) Moda: regole e rappresentazioni. Il cambiamento, il sistema, la comunicazione, Franco Angeli, Milano.

Codeluppi, V. Cos’è la Moda. Carocci, Roma, 2002.

Colaiacomo, P., Caratozzolo, V. (a cura di), Mercanti di Stile, Editori Riuniti, Roma, 2002.

Craik, J. The Face of Fashion, Routledge, London, 1993.

Crane, Diana (2000), Fashion and its Social Agendas. Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

Davis, Fred (1992), Fashion, Culture, and Identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

Entwistle, J. The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory. Cambridge, Polity Press, 2000.

Fedi, Daniela e Serlenga Lucia (2008) - Alla corte di re moda, Edizioni Salani.

Finkelstein, Joanne (1998), Fashion, New York: New York University Press.

Fontana, F., Caroli, M. 2004. L’Industria della Moda in Italia. Strutture del Settore, Dinamiche Competitive, e Lineamenti di Politica Industriale. Roma, Rirea, 2004.

Gastel, M. 50 Anni di Moda Italiana. Vallardi, Milano, 1995.

Giusti, N. Introduzione allo studio della moda, Il Mulino, 2009.

Gnoli, S. Un Secolo di Moda Italiana. Roma, Meltemi, 2005.

Grogan, Sarah (1997), Body Image, London: Routledge.

Grumbach, D. Histoire de la Mode, Seuil, Parigi, 1993.

Hebdige, D. Subculture: The Meaning of Style. London, Methuen, 1979.

Hermes, Joke (1995), Reading Women’s Magazines: an analysis of everyday media use, Cambridge: Polity Press.

Jobling, P. Fashion Spreads: Word and Image in Fashion Photography since 1980. Berg, Oxford, 1999.

Kaiser, S. B. The Social Psychology of Clothing. Fairchild, New York, 1998.

Kapferer, Jean-Noël and Bastien, Vincent (2010) Luxury strategy. Sovvertire le regole del marketing per costruire veri brand di lusso. Franco Angeli.

Kawamura, Y. The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion. Berg, Oxford, 2004.

Kawamura, Y. La Moda. Bologna, Il Mulino, 2006.

Kunz, Grace I., and Myrna B. Garner (2006), Going Global, The Textiles And Apparel Industry, NewYork: Fairchild Publications.

Leblanc, Lauraine (1999), Pretty in Punk: Girls' Gender Resistance in a Boys' Subculture, New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press.

Lurie, Alison (1981), The Language of Clothes, New York: Random House.

McRobbie, A. British Fashion Design: Rag Trade or Image Industry? Routledge, London, 1998.

Merlo, E. Moda Italiana: Storia di un’Industrial dall’Ottocento a Oggi. Venezia, Marsilio, 2003.

Molloy, John T. (1975), Dress for Success, New York: Warner.

Morini, E. Storia della Moda, Skira, Milano, 2999.

Muggleton, S. Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style. Berg, Oxford, 2000.

Polhemus, T. 1994. Street Style. Thames and Hudson, London, 1994.

Redaelli, Enrico e Rubertelli Manuela (2009), Design del prodotto moda. Dal tessuto alla passerella, Franco Angeli.

Reinach, S. S. La Moda. Un’Introduzione. Laterza, 2005.

Sacerdote, Emanuele (a cura di) (2007) La Strategia retail nella moda e nel lusso. Dalla marca, al negozio, al cliente: scenari e tendenze. Milano, Franco Angeli (Polimoda Libri, Fashion Marketing).

Saviolo, Stefania e Testa Salvo (2000) Le imprese del sistema moda, Etas Libri.

Saviolo, Stefania e Barbara Giannelli (2001) Il licensing nel sistema moda, Etas Libri.

Saviolo, Stefania e Corbellini Erica (2004) La scommessa del Made in Italy, e il futuro della moda italiana, Etas Libri.

Saviolo, Stefania e Corbellini Erica (2009) L'esperienza del lusso, Etas Libri.

Solomon, M.R. (a cura di), The Psychology of Fashion, Lexington (Ma), Lexington Books, 1985.

Steele, V. Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. Oxford University Press, Oxford, 1999.

Troy, N. J. Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. Cambridge, The MIT Press, 2003.

Vergani, G. La Sala Bianca. Electa, Milano, 1992.

Vergani, G. (a cura di). Dizionario della Moda. Baldini Castoldi Dalai, Milano, 2003.

Volli, U. Contro la Moda. Feltrinelli, Milano, 1988.

Volli, U. Block Modes. Lupetti, Milano, 1998.

White, N. Reconstructing Italian Fashion. Berg, Oxford, 2000.

Wolf, Naomi (1991), The Beauty Myth, New York: Anchor.

RIVISTE SCIENTIFICHE DEDICATE ALLA MODA

Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture

Fashion Practice, The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry

Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture

Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management

ZoneModa Journal

Journal of Global Fashion Marketing

ARTICOLI E CAPITOLI DI LIBRI (SELEZIONE)

Abdecassis-Moedas, C., Benghozi, P.-J., “La struttura degli scambi nella moda: dal designer al distributore”, Economia della Cultura 25 (2), pp. 209-220.

Ainamo, A., Djelic, M.-L., “The coevolution of new organizational forms in the fashion industry: A historical and comparative study of France, Italy and the United States”, Organization Science 10 (5), pp. 622-637.

Bovone, Laura (2006), “Urban style cultures and urban cultural production in Milan: Postmodern identity and the transformation of fashion”, Poetics, 34, 370-382.

Cillo, P. "L'innovazione nel pret-à-porter: un'analisi longitudinale di Vogue Italia (1984-1999)" (con R. Cappetta e A. Ponti), in Economia & Management, n. 3, 2001, pp. 85-94.

Cillo, P. "La market orientation nel business to business. Il caso Alcantara" (con G. Padula), in Micro & Macro Marketing, n. 1, 2001, pp. 171-194.

Cillo, P. "La costruzione dell'identità di marca: il caso Diesel" (con A. Lanza), in Micro & Macro Marketing, n. 1, 2000, pp. 129-146.

Cillo P., Verona G. (2008), “Search Styles in Style Search: Learning Exploration Strategies from Fashion Firms”, Long Range Planning (In Press).

Clarke, Alison and Daniel Miller (2002), “Fashion and Anxiety”, Fashion Theory, vol. 6 no 2, 191-213.

Crane, D. 1999. “Diffusion models and fashion: A reassessment”, Annals of the American Academy of Psychology and Social Science 566: 13-24.

Crane, Diana, and Laura Bovone (2006), “Approaches to material culture: The sociology of fashion and clothing”, Poetics, 34, 319-33.

Entwistle, Joanne (2002), “The Aaesthetic Economy: Fashion Modelling and the Production of Culturally Valued Bodies”, Journal of Consumer Culture, 2 (3), 325-47.

Entwistle, Joanne (2006), “The Cultural Economy of Fashion Buying”, Current Sociology, vol. 54 (5), 704-24.

Evans, Caroline (2001), “The enchanted spectacle”, Fashion Theory 5 (3): 271-310.

Evans, Martin (1989), “Consumer Behavior towards Fashion,” European Journal of Marketing, 23, (7),7-16.

F. Golfetto, D. Rinallo (2008), “Reshaping markets through collective marketing strategies. Lessons from the textile industry”. In K. Tollin, A. Carù (Eds.), Strategic Market Creation: Realizing Radical Innovation from a Marketing Perspective, Wiley.

Hirsch, Paul M. (1972), “Processing Fads and Fashions: An Organization-Set Analysis of Cultural Industry Systems”, American Journal of Sociology 77 (4): 639-59.

Johnstone, Micael-Lee and Denise M. Conroy (2005), “Dressing for the Thrill: An Exploration of Why Women Dress Up to Go Shopping”, Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 4 (4), 234-245.

Kawamura, Yuniya (2006), “Japanese Teens as Producers of Street Fashion”, Current Sociology, 54 (5), 784-801.

McCracken G. 1986. “Culture and consumption: A theoretical account of the structure and movement of the cultural meaning of consumer goods” Journal of Consumer Research 13 (1): 71-84.

McCracken G. 1989. “Who is the celebrity endorser? Cultural foundations of the endorsement process”. Journal of Consumer Research 16 (3): 310-321.

Miller, Daniel (2004), “The Little Black Dress is the Solution, but what is the Problem?”, in K. Ekström and H. Brembeck, eds., Elusive Consumption, Oxford: Berg Publisher, 113-128.

Moeran, Brian (2006), “More than Just a Fashion Magazine”, Current Sociology, vol. 54 (5), 725-44.

Mora, Emanuela (2006), “Collective production of creativity in the Italian fashion system”, Poetics, 34, 334-53.

Murray, Jeff B. (2002), “The Politics of Consumption: A Re-inquiry on Thompson and Haytko’s (1997) “Speaking of Fashion””, Journal of Consumer Research 29 (December), 427-440.

O’Cass, Aron (2004), “Fashion Clothing Consumption: antecedents and consequences of fashion clothing involvement”, European Journal of Marketing, 38 (July), 869-882.

Prandelli E., "Verso il prodotto relazionale. Alcune evidenze empiriche dal settore dell'abbigliamento giovane" (con S. Saviolo), in Economia & Management, n. 6, novembre 1996.

Richins, Marsha L. (1991), “Social Comparison and the Idealized Images of Advertising”, Journal of Consumer Research 18 (June): 71-83.

D. Rinallo (2008), “‘It’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry’: Fashion and consumer agency, revisited”, in S. Borghini, M. A. McGrath &C. Oates (eds.), European Advances in Consumer Research, Vol. 8, Milan: Association for Consumer Research, pp. 60-63.

D. Rinallo (2007), “Metro/Fashion/Tribes of men: Negotiating the boundaries of men’s legitimate consumption”, in B. Cova, R. Kozinets & A. Shankar (Eds.), Consumer Tribes: Theory, Practice, and Prospects, Elsevier / Butterworth-Heinemann.

D. Rinallo, S. Basuroy, (2009), “Does advertising spending influence media coverage of advertiser?”, Journal of Marketing, Vol 73 (November).

D. Rinallo, F. Golfetto (2006), “Representing Markets: The concertation of fashion trends by French and Italian fabric producers”, Industrial Marketing Management, Vol. 35 (7): 856-869.

Ruggerone, Lucia (2006), “The simulated (fictitious) body: The production of women’s images in fashion photography”, Poetics, 34, 354-69.

Skov, Lise (2005), “The Return of the Fur Coat: A Commodity Chain Perspective”, Current Sociology, 53(1), 8–33.

Stevens, Lorna and Pauline Maclaran (2005), “Exploring the ‘Shopping Imaginary’: The dreamworld of women’s magazines,” Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 4 (4), 282-292.

Taylor, Melissa (2005), “Culture Transition: Fashion’s Cultural Dialogue between Commerce and Art”, Fashion Theory, vol. 9 no. 4, 445-460.

Thompson, Craig J, and Diana L. Haytko (1997), “Speaking of Fashion: Consumers’ Uses of Fashion Discourses and the Appropriation of Countervailing Cultural Meanings”, Journal of Consumer Research 24 (1): 15-42.

Vicari, S. (2005) “Capacità creativa e innovazione” (with P. Cillo and G. Verona), Sinergie, n. 67, maggio-agosto.

Wilson, Elizabeth (1985), “Feminism and Fashion” in The Consumer Society Reader, ed. Juliet B. Schor and Douglas B. Holt, New York: The New Press, 291-305.

LINK

http://www.fashionmagazine.it/home.html

http://it.fashionmag.com/news/index.php

http://www.businessoffashion.com/

http://www.luxury24.ilsole24ore.com/

http://www.ft.com/intl/world

www.mffashion.it

http://www.wallpaper.com/

http://www.wired.it/

http://www.wmagazine.com/

http://www.chiechi.it/homepage.php

http://seidimoda.repubblica.it/home